Fall Shoes

I'd have to say that Kiran and I (Carla) share a deep love for shoes. Indeed, just yesterday she texted me to say "Just bought 2 pairs of you boots you would loveeee." At the same time, I feel like after this past  spring/summer when we saw some crazy shoe trends mixed unashamedly with fancy patterned socks popping up all over the street style photos, the shoes for this fall are comparatively lack- luster.

Still, after some browsing on one of my favourite websites (NeimanMarcus.Com) I managed to pick out a few styles that remind me of the more daring aesthetic that ruled the streets earlier this year.

Posted by: Carla

Because You Live Your Life in it: Versace Atelier FW 2011/2012

I sometimes have a hard time convincing people that fashion is art. In fact, I believe it to be one of the most relevant and immediate forms of art in our society, which is why I love it so much. Sure, not all of it is entirely practical, and I wouldn't go grocery shopping in a gold Balmain bathing suit, but I probably wouldn't go grocery shopping in a Klimt print either.

The thing about fashion experimentation is that it can either go horribly wrong, or horribly right. Atelier Versace's Fall/Winter 2011-12 line is a glowing example of high fashion gone right. The entire time I spent flipping through the images, my eyes were glued to the screen, the letters "O-M-G" bouncing through my head. It feels so good to find fashion to literally be excited about.

Atelier Versace's line makes use of metallic leather, baroque details, tulle, sequins, crystals, prints, gold accents and, obviously mixes these materials and mediums most effectively. There's also a glimpse of that ever-so-popular crop top that doesn't seem to be leaving anytime soon.

My favourites (aka pretty much all of the designs, because it was hard to choose):

Posted by: Carla

12 Reasons why Zac Posen will Rule the Red Carpet

If a picture says a thousand words, Zac gets 12, and we needn't say anything more than that these gowns are exquisite and we look forward to seeing his work everywhere next year. 

Posted by: Carla 

Luca Luca | Spring/Summer 2012

Luca Luca's signature aesthetic has been its bold use of colour. Raul Melgoza, the label's creative director since 2008 has taken the line in new directions using more subdued tones, but his Spring/Summer 2012 collection shows a return to those bright colours of the Luca Orlandi days.

Bright colours along with beach or retro inspired looks have reined so far in the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week shows, but Melgoza's line channels a more professional silhouette. He also largely rejects the patchwork and floral patterns we've seen elsewhere in favour of juxtaposing multiple bold colours on a single garment or outfit. This is something we've also seen from Prabal Gurung (notably in the pink pants/red blouse look that Sarah Jessica Parker has made famous, to mixed reviews.)

Melgoza's collection is, above all, aesthetically appealing and likely to pop up on many a street-style blog come spring. Some standouts:

Posted by: Carla 

Does antisemitism diminish genius? John Galliano only the latest in a long line of less-than-upstanding fashion designers.

I was upset to hear the news of John Galliano’s antisemitic tirade in a Parisian bar earlier this year. As a historian with a Master’s degree focusing largely on Nazi Germany and the Holocaust, I was obviously troubled by Galliano’s actions. At the same time, as a fan of both the House of Dior and the Galliano brand, I felt uncomfortable with my mind’s willingness to absolve Galliano’s actions simply because I believe him to be an artistic genius. 

When someone is an artist are we able to separate the creator from the man? Does the fact that Galliano has been found in a Parisian court to have committed antisemitic actions mean we must shun the art this man produces? In the end, is his art antisemitic if he is? I’m not sure. My inability to completely boycott all things Galliano adds to my discomfort. 

Still, the 6000 euro fine will hardly make a dent in Galliano’s pocketbook. This is, on paper, a classic case of the slap on the wrist. The maximum sentence for such a crime is a 22,000 euro fine and 6 months in prison. To some, particularly American observers, even this punishment is too much. Curtailing Galliano’s (drunken) rant is seen as an obstruction of his speech rights. However, most of these commentators ignore the context under which Galliano committed his “crime” and was charged. The French have felt their own discomfort at remembering the Occupation years and the tens of thousands of Jews that were sent by the collaborationist government to the Eastern European extermination camps. Antisemitism in this nation, with such a long historical record of religious and racial prejudice, is now taken at least a little more seriously. 

But Galliano hasn’t escaped his indiscretion with this verdict. He has lost his position as creative director for the House of Christian Dior as well as a stake in the company named for him. A few fashion industry friends like Kate Moss and Jean Paul Gaultier have stood by him, while others, like Natalie Portman, have publicly announced their disappointment. Galliano has even drawn the attention of the American watchdog group, the Anti-Defamation League. Essentially, Galliano’s reputation has undoubtedly suffered, as lawyer Yves Beddouk states, this public pillory is the “real punishment.” 

Galliano’s only released design of the year has been Kate Moss’ famed wedding dress. Of this project, Galliano states, “She dared me to be John Galliano again. I couldn’t pick up a pencil. It’s been my creative rehab.” 

Christian Dior himself mentioned in his memoirs that there were two Christians. One was born in 1947 with the advent of his famous “New Look,” and aesthetic that propelled Dior into the fashion limelight and Paris out of its Occupation slump. Dior’s contemporary, Italian-born Elsa Schiaparelli noted around the same time that “Schiap” was a famous designer, but that she was someone else. Schiaparelli often referred to “Schiap” in the third person as if talking about a completely different entity. Galliano’s feelings of distance from himself seem almost symptomatic of being such a famous figure. 

But then, his actions are not new either. During the Occupation of Paris Coco Chanel attempted to use the Nazi anti-Jewish laws to her favor to regain control of her company, Les Parfums Chanel, from two Jewish brothers. During this time, she was having an affair with a Nazi, Hans Gunther Von Dincklage. Her actions could certainly have been construed as antisemitic or even treasonous. Yet, despite a number of biographies revealing this information, the House of Chanel has remained nearly unscathed after all these years. Karl Lagerfeld, creative director at Chanel, has publicly denounced Galliano’s actions. 

Other famed Parisian designers like Marcel Rochas, Jacques Fath and Nina Ricci were rumored to socialize with the Nazis, all taking in Paris’ vibrant nightlight. Rochas was even said to have crossed the street to avoid passing Jews on the sidewalk. The House of Rochas has opened and closed throughout the years and in 2006, when the house of Rochas faced closure, New York Times magazine published a lengthy article on the current creative director, Oliver Theyskins. The article contains no mention of the man for whom the brand was named or any of the aesthetic styles that may have been characteristic to Rochas during the height of his success.

Two years later, when the House re-opened, the Wall Street Journal mentioned that Theyskins had moved onto to work at Nina Ricci, another brand named for a woman who was known to rub elbows with Germans.

Of course, the actions of Chanel, Rochas, Fath and Ricci can be attributed to the extreme circumstances of wartime. France has historically had a problem coming to terms with its somewhat collaborationist past, and the records of designers have not-so-mysteriously disappeared. But at the same time, fashion houses have become much bigger than the people for whom they were named. This is especially true of Chanel and Dior. But what of Galliano? His actions have put his face in newspapers around the world, drawing attention to him and not the brand he has created. He was ousted from the House of Dior and its collections have been released on time without him. 

We’ve been willing to forget the actions of designers whose indiscretions took place while the war was happening. No one knew how long the Occupation would last--survival seemed to be the most important factor, even if that meant accommodating the Nazi occupiers. In the earliest years of the war, it was still impossible to imagine the extent of Nazi terror. Now we know, and now we take antisemitism seriously.  For me, Galliano’s artistic genius and talent mean his designs are among my favorites, but I still can’t sort out in my own head how I feel about the man. 

As it turns out, this “ghost of himself” doesn’t seem to have figured it out yet either. 

Posted by: Carla 

Vena Cava | SS2012 ModStyle

Designer label Vena Cava is composed of Parson's grads Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai. They met at age 17 and sewed their first collection on their Brooklyn living room floor in 2003. Their most recent collection for Spring/Summer 2012 is quite likely destined to be one of my favourites of the season. As crazy as it sounds, I love to see clothes that fully reflect the season for which they were designed, and Vena Cava's set of 21 looks does just that.

This retro inspired collection isn't exactly groundbreaking, but it reminds us that clothing is meant to be fun. A girl should enjoy what she's wearing and experiment with colours, textures and styles. This collection embodies that notion and encourages exploration as well as reflection on popular styles of the past.

I'm in love.

Gary Graham | SS 2012 RTW

Wilmington Delaware native, Gary Graham, is one of the first few designers to show his Spring/Summer 2012 collection. The Art Institute of Chicago graduate's show presents 28 looks that very much follow his self-described aesthetic:


"The incorporation of quilting, embroidery, patina and patchwork with chunky knits and leathers create a highly individualized look with impeccable finish. Signature prints and jacquards are designed to incorporate visual clues that articulate the underlying themes of each collection."


Graham's work is a mixture of shears, patchwork, florals and is at once punky and youthful but also elegant and grown-up. His garments would not be out of place at your local H&M store, and Graham describes his work simply as "comfortable." 


My biggest problem with the collection was that, as an earlier showing that was shot with one model rather than on a runway, it featured one model wearing all 28 looks. Unfortunately, the model does not rock the looks as well as one might. Similarly, I didn't enjoy the styling of black shoes over funky socks, the hemlines and the high-topped shoes made the model look short. Really, these clothes should have been worn by some 6 foot goddess. Just sayin'. At the same time, there were a few looks that worked, or had the potential to REALLY work for someone else (with better shoes.) 


Enjoy! and keep your eyes out for Graham definitely a New York designer to watch. 

Posted by: Carla

Fashion's Night Out!

New York's third annual Fashion's Night Out is upon us. Tomorrow night, dozens of luxury retailers will be offering exclusive designs and deals while designers, celebrities, musicians and fashion lovers will be mingling on the streets and stores of Manhattan. Best part? A number of other major fashion centres around the world will be holding the same type of after-hours shopping fest.

In case you happen to be hitting up the festivities in New York, New York Busy Girl blog offers all the inside information on where to be and when. If you won't be able to hit the big city in time, check out the FNO swag available HERE. 40% of the funds raised go to the New York AIDS Fund.

What better way to kick off New York Fashion week? Anyone else getting pumped to see the Spring 2012 collections??

Posted by: Carla

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Montreal Fashion Week!

Montreal fashion week is upon us! Click HERE to check out all the details of French Canada's style centre.  Also, stay tuned to read about The Fashion Breakdown's designers to watch.

Posted by: Carla